This is a recap of Generations Touring Company’s Pura Vida tour. See http://www.generationstouringcompany.com/html/familytravel/CostaRica.html for a listing of current departure dates.
Day One
The first time I visited Costa Rica I was surprised to see how hilly the area was. Despite being a country with some of the world’s most famous volcanoes, I assumed that a country that boasted incredible bio-diversity and widely recognized as an eco-tourism leader would be a tropical, flat land. I was about to find out just how diverse it was.
As we processed ourselves through customs I was reminded about how unstructured different countries are about traveling with minors. Generations Touring Company’s policy is to have parents not traveling with a minor child fill out a notarized letter giving the traveling adult specific permission to take their child out of the country.
Exiting from the customs area in a foreign country can be an overwhelming experience. Typically, one is greeted by a crowd of taxi drivers, transfer companies and other would be entrepreneurs that all want to whisk you off. It was comforting to see our names and the Generations Touring Company logo held by a nice young man who impressed us with his warmth and willingness to help us with our bags.
We checked into our hotel for the next couple days, the Bougainvillea. Located on the outskirts of San Jose, the Bougainvillea is close enough to downtown San Jose (a $7US taxi each way) but also it was situated on a larger piece of land with amazing gardens. It didn’t take long for the kids to find the pool and make all their age appropriate introductions. The GTC Sage, Ben, a Spanish teacher from Portland, OR was already busy getting to know each one the kids.
At our welcome dinner, our country guide, Karla, introduced herself to the group and outlined some of the adventures planned for the next couple days. With great ease, she made her way around the table and spoke with each adult asking open ended questions and getting a feel for her group. The kids meanwhile had banded at the other end of the table with Ben. It wasn’t long before Karla and Ben were working together like they had been at it for years.
Our group consisted of three grandmothers, a step grand-father, two parents, five kids and a travel writer from New York City. Some had traveled as a family before, others had not and this was the first international trip for several kids. Nevertheless I continue to be amazed at kids’ ability to make friends so quickly.
Day Two
Our first full day is designed to keep us in the San Jose area. This is done to allow for the chance that a plane might be delayed or a bag lost. We left the hotel early for an experiential visit to a Costa Rican market. Saturday morning at the market is a Costa Rican tradition. As we walked up and down the rows of produce I was amazed at the many colors and presentation. pix
Ben took the kids aside and gave each 200 colones (about 50 cents), paired them up and sent the kids out to buy some fruit or vegetable they had not eaten or heard of before. Within 15 minutes they all assembled back, with Karla there to describe what they had purchased (and also to check for allergies, etc.). Several items could not be consumed without preparation so Karla recommended we bring them back with us to the hotel and see if the kitchen could incorporate into a dinner….neat idea. The kids really seemed to appreciate the interactive learning experience.
Next we were off to learn about bio-diversity at IMBioparque. This non-profit organization has taken on the task of classifying and categorizing the different species of flora and fauna in Costa Rica. In the center we see a short video that succinctly explains why Costa Rica’s environment is so diverse. Afterward, we are toured around the grounds to see how the field scientists study the samples brought back to the center. We also see examples of plants and animals native to the region.
One grandmother was looking for a specific plant and left the group to search for her specific interest. This was not a problem as Ben was around to keep an eye on her grandson and our group was small enough that she would not be left behind.
Day Three
The next day we headed out to Tortuguero by way of the Braullio Carrillo National Park. Karla explained about the changing leaf formations as we gained elevation in the park. Once on the east side of the pass, we could see an expanse of flat land extending out as far as the eye could see. Soon we were on a covered flat boat navigating through Caño Blanco to Tortuguero. Our boatman expertly guided us through the canal winding through turns which the kids found exciting. Karla pointed out different animals and exotic plants along the way.
Our hotel in Tortuguero, the Tortuga Lodge, is a classic property with large well ventilated, rooms, a main dining area with a large covered porch and the all important pool. The adults spread out, some choose to take a well deserved nap, others took a guide book and enjoyed an afternoon refreshment on the porch. We could tell from the “Marco Polo” calls at the pool that the kids had quickly made themselves at home.
Dinner that night was served family style and everyone loved it. Karla explained to us that one of the highlights of a summer visit to Tortuguero was the chance to see the nesting activity of the Atlantic Sea Turtle. These great creatures out at sea for twenty years come back to make a nest within 15 feet of where they were hatched.
Access to the nesting beach is controlled by park rangers. Visitors have to put their names in a lottery system in the hopes of being assigned one of two blocks to be on the beach. Our group was to go tonight at 8pm. Two grandmothers opted out due not sure of their ability to navigate the beach at night. Their grandchildren on the other hand, were eager to stay with the group.
Karla instructed us wear dark clothes, not bring any jewelry, flashlights or cameras. At 8pm we met our “Turtle Guide” for the evening and headed out to the beach. Walking in single file our guide would identify pieces of driftwood or rocks with a small pen light. Suddenly the guide would stop and as we all looked up we saw an enormous turtle measuring 5 feet long and three feet high scurrying back to disappear in the surf of the ocean. Everyone stood in awe. This was not an animal in captivity or in a zoo, this was real and everyone seemed to understand how special it was. We were to see five or six more turtles this evening – each encounter as exciting as the first.
Day Four
The next day we spent out in the canals of Tortuguero National Park looking for howler monkeys, iguanas (called tree chickens by the locals), caimans and a host of trees and flowers. Later that night Ben had the kids bring their field guides down to dinner. He had each child sit with a grandparent or parent and had them open to the family section in the GTC field guide. The families all spent the next hour talking about people in their family tree and interesting stories about their ancestors. It was clear to me that the adults absolutely loved the direct connection with the kids.
Day Five
The next morning we headed out via small plane to Fortuna and Arenal volcano. Stopping in the small town of Fortuna, where people lingered in the small shops or went to an Internet cafe to send an email back to their family. Soon we were headed out to Arenal. The drive was pleasant through the countryside of lush green foliage and small villages. Our coach pulled into The Mirador Kioro, the restaurant closest to the Arenal Volcano. After a hearty lunch, we were treated to a lecture from a local volcanologist who explained about the different types of volcanoes. We were fascinated to hear Arenal rumbling (sounds like thunder) and to see “white hot” rocks cascading down the side of the volcano.
After lunch we went on a leisurely walk through a park of hanging bridges. On the walk Karla talked about the tree canopy and we were treated to the sights and sounds of toucans, howler and spider monkeys among others. It had been a full day at that point and everyone was happy to get some rest at our hotel, the Montana de Fuego. The kids immediately found the pool and adults relaxed.
Later that evening we went to a family operated hot springs, Ecotermales, for a nice soak by thermally heated water that flowed through a cascade of four pools. Everyone enjoyed the clean, warm water that flowed naturally from a spring located on the property. While we were soaking the Hidalgo Family was busy cooking and had a delicious buffet ready for us as we emerged from the pools. The ride home that night was magical as we watched red rocks break up and roll down the side of Arenal.
Day Six
The next morning we headed out by boat across Lake Arenal. Ramon, our driver, took our bags and headed off to meet us in our eventual destination, Monteverde. Meanwhile we boarded our covered boat to take a shortcut across Arenal Lake and then up the backroads via 4×4’s to Monteverde. The short trip across the lake literally started with a bang as Arenal gave us a loud “goodbye”.
On the other side of the lake, we stopped at a small store with some unique larger than life figurines…soon our caravan of Jeeps (otherwise known as SUV’s) arrived and we were off to Monteverde using the less traveled backroads. The ride was bumpy and we drove through a couple short showers, followed by sun filled skies – all set in some of the most beautiful vistas.
Soon we entered the hill town of St. Elena. St. Elena is the primary commercial area of Monteverde which was settled by American Quakers in the 1950’s. The Quakers are opposed to violence and were drawn to Costa Rica when the country abolished its military. Although Monteverde has become a popular destination within Costa Rica, the community there has resisted the traditional pressures to develop the area into a commercial tourist destination. The result is a destination with integrity, purpose and natural wonders.
We settled in at the Monteverde Lodge and enjoyed a great meal served family style. Joining us for dinner was a local biologist who shared some the findings of his research on the impact of global warming on various frog populations in the nearby cloud forests. The kids were interested for awhile and eventually went to hang out by the pool with Ben but the adults really enjoyed the intimacy of the visit and the opportunity to ask in depth questions. Soon it was later than we realized and everyone went to get some rest.
Day Seven
The next morning we went to visit a local school in St. Elena. The school building was a simple three room, single story structure but one could sense there was plenty of youthful energy abounding all over. Our group was given a tour of the classrooms and the kids got to see how school life was similar and different in Costa Rica. We presented our gift to the school, ink cartridges, which Karla had called ahead to make sure was needed.
Soon we found ourselves being led into a small field behind the school. A couple of the boys chased away some lingering cows and the stage was set for a quick game of soccer. As the kids took their sides, the Costa Rican children stopped formed a line and began singing their national anthem. To the surprise of the American parents, their children reciprocated. Many of us did not know the kids even knew the words of the Star Spangled banner. After a brisk game everyone enjoyed a picnic lunch and the kids took turns making presentations, doing dances or playing music for each other. Sadly it was time for us to move on and for the Costa Rican children to get back to their studies but we all left feeling more connected to the school, teachers and kids.
Next we went on a short hike through the Cloud Forest Park. We were told that this is a great area to see one of Costa Rica’s more famous birds, the Quetzal. However, their primary food source was out of season and we weren’t able to see any this afternoon. On the way back from the hike we stopped off at the Cheese Factory, still run by the Quaker community. Everyone took advantage of the opportunity to have a small ice-cream. My wife claims it was the best ice cream she has ever had.
Day Eight
The next morning the group split up. The kids all expressed a keen interest in a canopy tour which had not been on the itinerary. After receiving permission from each child’s parent Ben and I took the children on a thrilling experience gliding in a harness across deep canyons and through the tree canopies of the cloud forest. The parents and grandparents spent the morning packing and with Karla at a local butterfly farm.
Soon Ramon was ready for us to board our coach and head back to San Jose. On the way back we passed through several small villages as we descended from Monteverde. Karla explained to us that Costa Ricans considered an area a village if there was a church, bar, and a tienda (small store). Everyone paid closer attention as we wound our way back to San Jose – looking for the missing church or tienda as we drove through the different communities.
At last we made it to the main highway to San Jose. Everyone was happy to see paved roads again but the traffic was awful. The main highway to San Jose was a two lane road that only moved as fast as the slowest truck. The group started show a little fatigue from the trip with people chatting quietly, taking naps or just looking inquisitively out the window.
As we approached San Jose, Karla asked everyone if she could make a quick stop before we returned for our farewell dinner. The coach pulled into a small residential area – soon Karla had hopped out beckoning everyone to follow. Before you know we were being introduced to her husband and two girls. She toured our kids around and showed them how her home was setup. What a hospitable and friendly way to end our trip.
That evening we enjoyed a festive meal and were entertained by a short awards program sponsored by Ben and the children. Everyone received awards for courage, athletic ability, insightful ideas or humor. The group also recognized Ben, Karla and Ramon for making it all happen. The was lots of happiness all around.
Day Nine
The next morning we boarded our transfer to the airport. It would be a long day of flying but listening to the kids talking about their memories and laughing about their fun times made me think we were taking a little bit of Costa Rica home with us.
Note: This tour describes the events of tour in August 2004. It is meant to be shared to give readers a sense of what happens on a Generations Touring Company® family tour. Each GTC experience is a little different from another depending on the group’s interests, weather, etc.